above: Place of a Thousand Drips
above: Ephraim Bales Barn
The Cherokee People called the Great Smoky Mountains "Shaconage," or "place of blue smoke." It is a place of remarkable natural beauty, incredible views, and sparkling streams. I have visited these mountains several times and each time I am amazed by their quiet strength. They really do appear out of a bluish haze that creates a remarkable palette of color.
Last month I again made the long trek to the Smoky Mountains with my parents. Due to the humid heat, my dad and I decided to forgo a hike by foot and at the suggestion of a local resident, traveled the Roaring Fork Motor Trail in the Smoky Mountain National Park, which takes off out of Gatlinburg, Tennessee. This one-way paved road twists and turns through the park and shows off the bounty of the park. Creamy, blush wild Rhodies were everywhere and at every turn it seemed as though there were beautiful waterfalls. It was a welcome respite from the busyness of Gatlinburg. One of the most impressive sights was the Place of a Thousand Drips, an awe-inspiring waterfall that cascaded over ancient rocks.
The local that told us about Roaring Fork Motor Trail owned a second hand store in between Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge. Her family had been early settlers of the area and she introduced me to her grandmother who was in her 90's. "Grandma" was a delightful lady with a southern mountain drawl. She spoke of living on the family farm, which was now in the Smoky Mountain National Park. The U.S. Government bought out her family's farm and they had to move to make way for the park 75 years ago. This brought to my attention the plight of many of the mountain families that had to give up their homes and farms during the time of the creation of the park. There is still some bitterness by some that miss their homesteads, as the park came with a high price tag for those that had to vacate the land after being bought out by the U.S. Government. The amount of great emotional losses to people who had to walk away from their homes didn't equal the amount of monies paid for their lands. A later survey of the displaced people showed that about half took the money and ran and were glad to have it; while the other half expressed feelings from mild inconvenience to outright hostility. Some people were allowed to stay under lifetime leases, particularly if they were too old or too sick to move. Younger ones were granted leases on a short-term basis, if they wanted to try to stick it out. However, they could not cut timber, hunt and trap at will, or otherwise live as they always had.
All in all, more than 1,200 land-owners had to leave their land once the park was established. They left behind many farm buildings, mills, schools, and churches. Over 70 of these structures have since been preserved so that Great Smoky Mountains National Park now contains the largest collection of historic log buildings in the East. (information from National Park Service-Great Smoky Mountain National Park site)
One farm that stands is the Ephraim Bales place. Standing silent in a wooded glen, the cabin and outbuildings seemed frozen in time. From the rock walls built by busy hands, to the paths that curved down to the rushing stream, this homestead was quiet, as if waiting for the nine Bales children to return. Walking along the grounds, I found myself imagining what it would have been like to live such a life in the mountains. I was thankful for the preservation of these homesteads that allow us to peak into the past, but I mourned the families that had to give up their dreams and make way for the park.
